Topic: Traveling if temp is below 32 (Read 2573 times) previous topic - next topic

We're traveling. Unity 24FX. Temps will be below 32 2 nights. If leave furnace running, put insulation in the water bay and around macerator pump should we be okay?

What do you do?

We have a 2020 Unity Murphy Bed on a 2019 Chassis.  We have about 36K miles on it and travel between our two homes in Arizona and Iowa. We Leave Iowa about Nov. 1 and leave Arizona about April 1.  We also try to take several trips a year.  We usually hit freezing weather on our trips back and forth to Arizona.
We don't worry if the temps stay at 30 or above at night and warm up during the day.  I feel there is enough radiant heat from the motorhome to avoid any freezing. 
If it is going to get really cold, I drain the water tank and dump the holding tanks but make sure there is some antifreeze in them so the macerator has something to protect it. I carry a small air compressor to blow the lines out since that will probably be the biggest area of concern.
We carry enough bottled water for fresh water and flush the toilet with antifreeze. I ran out of RV antifreeze one time and used windshield washer fluid to flush the toilet. 
One trick I learned with a remote thermometer is that the LED light in the utility bay will warm it up about 3-4 degrees if it is left on.
The first time I got caught in 20's at night I had no antifreeze or compressor, so I let the outside sprayer in the utility bay drip water thru the hose opening all night and left the LED light on and had no problems.
I do carry a small 1500 watt space heater and have thought about leaving it under the motorhome and run it on low if I had shore power but have never tried it yet.
Good luck.
I can't believe an RV built in Canada is only 3 season. 
We still love our LTV and after 18 years of a 5th wheel we wouldn't have anything else.
Good Luck

95% of people do not use their LTV in the winter. Why would LTV want to put more expense into a product if no one uses it? To make a RV ready for that 4th season is NOT an easy thing nor would it be cheap. I made mine work in any temp as I love winter camping and it was not easy. I also had to add another furnace in the back to keep up with the cold.

Here is what I did like you to make it winter ready.
1. Added rear 15k BTU furnace. I also direct heat from it into bay above water bay.
2. Added Truma Winter Kit
3. Added heating pads under tanks and below step to keep battery warm
. 4 drilled 2" holes in back of step to bring in warm air for circulation.
5. Added moving blanket partition behind front seats.
6. Cut moving blankets for each window to keep cold out and Added snaps to keep them up.
7. Put foam pads in roof vent and sky lights.
8. Use anti freeze like you in toilet so macerator does not freeze and no heat pads on that.
9. Put Govee temp monitors in each bay with alarms if something goes wrong.
10. Floor we use either moving blankets that are cut to size and snapped down or use same rugs we do on summer.
11. I hqve had the House 12v go out before because of low amp usage so I added separate 12v panel so I hqve backup power for furnace and other items.
12. Sealed water bay and sprayed foam around it and water piped going from that to inside.
13. Probably more but I cannot remember.

I have been in -20 weather with it in MN and no issues and cozy warm. I love winter camping.  Just imagine how much LTV would charge extra for 4 season camper. ALOT.

Todd

We currently own a Bigfoot SuperC that functions very well in below freezing temperatures with no modifications.  At 32 feet long I would love to have a shorter motorhome that would function as well in below freezing temperatures.  We don't actively winter camp like other Bigfoot owners but we often find ourselves on the road in below freezing temperatures.  If Leisure van or any other manufacturer built a four season small rig (25') I would swap but alas no one does.  The first company to build a small four season rig will find they will sell like crazy.  As for camping in below freezing temperatures we place the foil bubble wrap hot water heater insulation in every window and skylight.  We also place  1" styrofoam underneath the foil wrap in the skylights and place a heavy curtain between the cab and the coach.  This makes the living area warm and toasty.  Insulated inserts that are available at Camping World are a must for any roof vent that you are not using.  If you do camp in below freezing temperatures make sure you have a minimum of two methods of winterizing your rig in case your furnace stops working for any reason.  We carry two air compressors for this plus some RV/Marine antifreeze to protect the water pump, just in case our heating system fails. 
The advise that Noel gave is spot on and if I had a LTV I would adhere to his advise if I was camping below freezing.  Having your furnace on will protect expensive items like your toilet and many water lines but without winterizing many areas are still vulnerable for expensive repairs if they freeze.  ( and a ruined trip). You can get heat strips that will protect your water and holding tanks installed but they only work if you have hookups and you still have no protection while driving.  We mostly camp without hookups so heat strips would be no good for our use.

The reality is that most RVs that say they are all season or 4 season are not really adequate in temps much below freezing. Arctic packages sometimes add 1 tank heater and a little bit of extra insulation. It's important to realize that any time you use your RV under freezing temps you run the risk of freezing a tank or line and causing damage this is not covered under warranty, aftermarket warranty/service plans or insurance.

A lot of LTV owners say that they trust their RVs in temperatures as low as 25 f at night as long as they keep the furnace on in the coach and the water heater on HOT or Comfort.

If you intend to use your LTV in below freezing temperatures regularly I would recommend adding 12v tank heaters to each holding tank.

Need more than tank heaters. 
Many water lines are exposed under the LTV, plus the dump valves.