Topic: Sliding Screen Door on our 2016 Serenity (Read 4845 times) previous topic - next topic

We have just bought a used 2016 Serenity and are tweaking her up for some long trips to the National Parks - excited to hit the road!  Our shake down cruise was to a state park about 45 minutes away. On day three and have been happy with how things are going.  One item that does not seem to work well is the sliding screen door.  Ironically, the used Serenitys we looked at before we purchased this one all had  broken or rebellious screen doors (a red flag we ignored because we loved everything else). The door is hard to slide (Bob has lubricated), and the vertical slide does not stay vertical, thus the lead bar falls out.  It appears it need more support to keep the sliding bar aligned vertically. We haven't found any information regarding this issue.  At this point we are considering taking it out and putting in a velcro-magnet version that seems like it would be more useful.  Any advice or similar experiences?
Ann and Bob

I just wanted to suggest that if this is a problem, go for the Velcro/magnetic screen door and post photos of the instal and completed project.  As one who has not had her new U24CB delivered yet (Due Sept 2018) I have not had an opportunity to begin modifications.  But I have had three Airstreams, one Tiffin Allegro Bus in the past, dozens of modifications on all. 

Sometimes we just need to fix what was not clearly worked out by the factory.

We also own a 2016 Serenity.  The screen is finicky. It does not close easily, it requires a strong continuous slide carried thru to the latch.  My wife struggles with this and forget any strangers trying to use it. On retract, you have to jerk it out of the latch and just let go..if you try to guide it like my wife does, you will pull it out of the guides.  So for me it works, for my wife it is a hassle.  Until it breaks, which I expect it will, I can manage it. Frankly, I can't believe LTV has not found something better, it is so close to the shower door that works just fine? Fred J.

our 2018 has similar problems, we find that if you are slow and steady it works better

I purchased a used 2012 Libero and I think it is missing a bottom piece because I screen only (which is frayed and has space to allow insects through.  I asked local repair shop if they could repair—said no and it would be either 700 or $900 to replace.  Said no thanks.  Then called LTV and they said they didn’t sell that one anymore and gave me some company in Greenville, SC but they never returned my call.  I was thinking of magnets screen also.  Let me know if it stays put. 

A late Update...  Thank you for the suggestion of the magnetic screen door...that's what we are going to do.  Will keep you posted.  Have been busy with crappy black tank valves most recently.  The screen is on the list

Hi,

This is an old post, but I discovered a new fix for this  continuing problem for any Serenity/Libero/Unity owners with the retractable screen door.  Like others, I am used to using two hands to lever the screen away from it's catches, then LET GO, and let it retract itself (sometimes slowly).  If you push the screen open, it's asking for trouble, since you will be moving it faster than the drum can retract it.  Cleaning the tracks is mandatory but I just found another DIY guide that tells you how to increase the winding tension on the retraction drum.

At least on the original Freedom II body (hard shell molded stairs and door surround) you need to unscrew and remove both the upper and lower tracks before being able to remove the screen cassette assembly.  Then you can unclip the entire screen cassette assembly from the wall using a flat screwdriver to spring open the wallclips.  Then  take the entire drum/cassette  over to a table (I did this at a campsite, so used  the picnic table).  On either end of the drum, there is a single screw holding in an end plate.  Choose either end and remove the screw, then gently/carefully pull the end plate away from the screen drum housing.  This end plate is wound up with a spring so if you pull it too far, I can't tell you what will happen, but it will probably involve a lot of sweat, swearing and several drinks of your choice.  You only need to pull it out about an inch/ 2cm to get the locking pin out of the upper housing. Then you can wind the end plate a few times more ( I wound it about 5 times) whatever direction is against the spring tension.  Then put the end plate back in, being careful to align the locking pin with its matching groove in the housing.  Then put the screw in and try the screen retraction while still on the table.  You can repeat to increase or decrease the tension.  Reinstall the cassette and the upper and lower tracks.

My wife gave the thumbs up that this made the screen far more usable.  Even if there's  a bit more tension when pushing the lead bar against the door-close catches, the benefit is that tension causes the screen to retract more quickly during opening, reducing the temptation to push it, which invariably cocks the leading bar sideways.

Or see this Larson video (slightly different than ours, but same concept)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3yJXXBBoJU 

Good Luck
Gary
Shawnigan Lake BC
2008 Libero

Our tip is to make sure the (adjustable) release handle is at the proper height and pull it only horizontally. When exiting, you're standing on a higher level and it's unintentional to guide the handle a bit upward toward you, which can cause the screen to go screwy. I find it easier to enter from the outside because I'm using the handle from a lower position and can control the horizontal slide easier.

Thankyou so much for the suggestion:)